Evaluation.

To evaluate, I have very much enjoyed this project. While it was tough at first trying to choose my object out of all the wonderful one that I saw at both Chatsworth and Snibston. I remained happy with my choice of object throughout the project and had no desire to change it, as it opened so many doors to different interesting subjects that I could look in to.

I found writing the blog enjoyable overall, but at times a challenge. Posts such as: Semiotics, Store Analysis and Youth Subcultures were very enjoyable to me, as I found that I had a lot to write about, while the Revivals and Analysis of a Newspaper article posts were the hardest for me, as I was really struggling for things to write about, but with extensive research I managed to.

I believe that the main thing I need to work on is sticking to the word count. Some of my posts have far too much in them, and even after cutting them down as much as I could, there is still too many words.

 

 

Gender and dress.

This Gossard ‘Retrolution’ slip is made to be worn underneath clothing to ensure that the stomach is held in and looks relatively smooth, as well as providing support for the breasts. This garment is gendered towards women, due to its styling and is sold in women’s lingerie departments. This would be the same in all countries that it is sold in. However, some men would like to wear this garment as cross dressers or as a fetish, this would be possible as it goes up to large sizes.

http://www.thelingerieaddict.com/2013/09/a-guide-to-shapewear-and-other-sneaky-solutions.html

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Gossard Retrolution slip

There is clear inspiration taken from 1950’s lingerie for this garment, such as a ‘Warners’ girdle slip. The colouring, the lace over lay and the overall shape is very similar, but simply updated to be more relevant to nowadays. For example, the Warners slip will have been more supportive, and would hold in the body at the waist far more, so it would be far more uncomfortable, also the cups would be less supportive but project a more ‘pointed’ appearance, as that was the fashion of the time.

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Warners girdle

Contemporary designers have not really used such a feminine design as an influence for their menswear collections, but an example is the garment that Marc Jacobs wore (by Marc Jacobs), it uses lace which is usually exclusively for women and is also a dress, which is normally only worn by women from an aesthetic point of view. This garment was an enormous shock, and is unlikely to be used commercially.

http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9251798/Marc-Jacobs-at-the-Met-Ball-2012-I-just-didnt-wanna-wear-a-tuxedo-and-be-boring.html

Marc Jacobs in lace dress

This style of dress is very popular at the moment as outerwear, and I think that Herve Leger, who originally created the bandage dress, has created a very similar dress made for outerwear. It is seen as extremely ‘sexy’, and is worn because it is far more acceptable to wear something which would have been seen as underwear 60 years ago as outerwear today.

Herve Leger lace dress

Herve Leger lace dress

To be feminine in our culture is to have qualities associated with a traditional woman.This is prettiness and modesty, but can also be viewed aesthetically as flowers, the colour pink, fluffy things, etc. I believe that the basic meanings have stayed the same over the years, but small aesthetics, like I mentioned, may have changed.

Bibliography.

GOSSARD (2013) Gossard Retrolution slip dress [Online image]. Available from: http://images.asos-media.com/inv/media/0/0/4/8/2508400/black/image1xl.jpg [Accessed 11/12/13]

POSH GIRL VINTAGE (n.d) Warners 1950’s girdle [Online image]. Available from: http://www.poshgirlvintage.com/bmz_cache/9/92f23b363f5515ae91cad5c6b570489a.image.300×480.jpg [Accessed 11/12/13]

EPA (2012) Marc Jacobs at Met Gala 2012 [Online image]. Available from: http://ris.fashion.telegraph.co.uk/RichImageService.svc/imagecontent/1/TMG9251798/m/marc-epa-main_2213590a.jpg [Accessed 11/12/13]

GLAMOUR MAGAZINE (2011) Kate Winslet Glamour cover [Online image]. Available from: http://www3.images.coolspotters.com/photos/564177/kate-winslet-and-herve-leger-spring-2011-rtw-lace-embroidered-halter-bandage-dress-gallery.jpg [Accessed 11/12/13]

N.A (n.d) Asos Gossard Retrolution [Online] Available from: http://www.asos.com/Gossard/Gossard-Retrolution-Waist-Cincher/Prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=2508354&sgid=5164&SearchQuery=gossard&sh=0&pge=0&pgesize=36&sort=-1&clr=Black# [Accessed 11/12/13]

N.A (n.d) Shapewear 101: A Guide to Shapewear (and Other Sneaky Lingerie Solutions.) The Lingerie Addict. Weblog [Online] Available from: http://www.thelingerieaddict.com/2013/09/a-guide-to-shapewear-and-other-sneaky-solutions.html [Accessed 11/12/13]

N.A (n.d) Feminine definition [Online] Available from: http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/feminine [Accessed 11/12/13]

LYNN, E (n.d) Underwear: Fashion in detail. London: V&A.

BUCKLEY, C. and FAWCETT, H. (2001) Fashioning the feminine. I.B Tauris.

Sustainability.

I have chosen this Mulberry shirt that I bought recently, it is made of pure silk and was made in England. RRP was £400.

DSC_0151It is an extremely good quality garment, so is therefore made from the best quality silk. Silk is natural and can be a renewable source if it is ‘peace silk’, which means that the silk worms are allowed to emerge from their cocoons and live their full lives, not dying as a result of the silk being made However, regular silk is made by boiling cocoons with the silk worm still inside, therefore DSC_0150killing it. It is not clear which form of silk was used to make this garment, however due to the enormous cost it is very possible that this is made from ethically sourced wool, as it is harder to create, therefore more expensive.

http://www.ecofashionworld.com/Glossary/Cruelty-Free-Silk-or-Peace-Silk.html

Mulberry prides itself on making all of its products in England, therefore is seen as being ethically produced as there is a minimum wage in Britain so workers are not being exploited like they are in other countries such as India. In the same way that ‘Fair trade’ products are more expensive than regular products, garments made in England will cost far more money than that of workers that are exploited.

http://www.independent.co.uk/voices/comment/forget-about-ethical-labels-for-clothes-we-need-unethical-ones-8594992.html?origin=internalSearch

Bibliography.

N.A (n.d) Mulberry ‘About us’ information [Online] Mulberry. Available from: http://www.mulberry.com/explore/about-us [Accessed 09/12/13].

JANE GILGUN (2010) The story of silk [Online video]. Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wbmEjTvszI

SCHOESER, M. (2007) Silk. USA: Yale University press.

GWILT, A. (n.d) A practical guide to sustainable fashion. N.A: Fairchild book.

N.A (n.d) Cruelty free silk or peace silk [Online] Eco fashion world. Available from: http://www.ecofashionworld.com/Glossary/Cruelty-Free-Silk-or-Peace-Silk.html [Accessed: 09/12/13]

Revivals.

The bodice detail on this dress from Versace’s S/S 14 collection. While it is ‘sexy’ and form fitting, it has a lot of similarities with mens shirts.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/versace

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This garment is definitely related to a shirt, despite how feminine it looks. The collar and centre line of buttons with the pockets and strips of thick stitching is stereotypical of any shirt, but I think this is more like a casual denim shirt, e.g. a Levis work shirt.

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The Versace garment has totally transformed the classic shirt, yet anybody could spot the distinct similarities. While traditionally a denim shirt will have been made for work as a sturdy and tough garment, not made to be aesthetically pleasing. So it is ironic that it has been stylized to be part of a high fashion Versace collection. It is amazing that this shirt has managed to influence such a ‘sexy’ garment.

Despite having the top button done up, which would previously be seen as smart, this adds to the sex appeal that this garment has. Whether its because it is on a woman or because of the cleavage bearing neckline of the dress, it is undeniably sexy, and projects a totally different image than that of an original Levis denim work shirt.

http://www.levistrauss.com/brands/levis

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Bibliography.

FASHION CHANNEL. (2013). “Versace” fashion show spring summer 2014 Milan [online video]. Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H05yqaINJc8 [Accessed 08/12/13].

N.A (n.d) Versace spring summer 2014 [Online] Vogue UK. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/versace [Accessed 08/12/13].

VERSACE (2013) White shirt dress [Online image]. Available from: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426×639/Shows/SS2014/Milan/R-T-W/Versace/00060h_426x639.jpg [Accessed 08/12/13].

VERSACE (2013) White shirt dress detail [Online image]. Available from: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/216×324/Shows/SS2014/Milan/R-T-W/Versace/Details/00090h_216x324.jpg %5BAccessed 08/12/13].

VERSACE (2013) White shirt dress detail [Online image]. Available from: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/216×324/Shows/SS2014/Milan/R-T-W/Versace/Details/00100h_216x324.jpg  [Accessed 08/12/13].

GREEN MY STYLE (n.d) Denim Levis womens shirt [Online image]. Available from: http://www.greenmystyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/levis-denim-shirt.jpg [Accessed 08/12/13].

TRUE RELIGION (2011) White True Religion mens denim shirt [Online image]. Available from: http://www.chameleonmenswear.co.uk/shirts-c5/long-sleeved-shirts-c10/true-religion-rocky-white-denim-long-sleeve-shirt-p2414 [Accessed 08/12/13].

N.A (n.d) About Levi Strauss & co. [Online] Levi Strauss & Co. Available from: http://www.levistrauss.com/about [Accessed 08/12/13].

MARTIN, R. (1997) Versace (fashion memoir). London: Thames and Hudson Ltd.

MARSH, G and TRYNKA, P. (2005) Denim: a visual history of the world’s most legendary fabric. N.A: Aurum press ltd.

 

Brand analysis.

AllSaints target customer is aged twenty to mid thirties. The main products sold are clothes which range from knitwear, to tailoring to graphic t-shirts, they also sell jewellery, shoes and bags. Products sold in these stores are very distinctive, are quirky tailoring, graphic prints and effortless looking style. They are made from very high quality fabric, often featuring cashmere, silk or leather. They would fall under the categories of basic, fashion and classic. The logo is a rams skull in a distressed print, which gives the impression of an edgy and derelict image. This is featured on t shirts and poloshirts. Carrier bags are thick card bags printed with the logo and brand name, which are make to have the same ‘distressed’ effect, the same as the swing tags. Their USP is highstreet Avant Garde style, with features such as oddly placed hemlines and clever drapery.

Rattle dress

Rattle dress

Drina cardigan

Drina cardigan

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DSC_0144The price of AllSaints products vary from £40 for a t-shirt to £398 for a leather jacket, they would be seen as ‘high’ highstreet due to their top price point. They have also collaborated with Swarovski to create a couple of items a year, including a dress costing £1,398. AllSaints have seasonal sales with mark downs of up to 50% twice a year and occasional 20% off events, but reductions are rare compared to a lot of other highstreet stores. I believe this makes them a more attractive store, as it makes them less attainable than other shops, for example Topshop.

Swarovski crystal mesh dress

Swarovski crystal mesh dress

AllSaints sell products only online and in bricks and mortar stores, which gives them an air of exclusivity. Within AllSaints physical stores they have a few of each garment out, which makes it look more exclusive and desirable. It also allows them to fit more types of stock in store. The location of AllSaints stores are in the middle of large cities, e.g. London and Manchester. Aside from obvious shopping locations such as Oxford Street, there’s a branch in Spitalfields, where the brand comes from and the flagship is based. The in-store environment looks derelict, with wood floors and rusting furnishings. There are old fashioned sewing machines mounted on the wall, and white neon lights. The stores are distinctive and create an entire shopping experience. Staff are helpful, and dress in AllSaints clothing, they tend to be young, beautiful and edgy people, who do a job of making the clothes more desirable.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/08/21/allsaints-new-york-fashion-week-show—presentation

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AllSaints advertise on the internet and billboards, this gives them maximum exposure. They use social networking sites, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Youtube and Pinterest. This makes it easier for their target audience to keep up with the brand. The brand supports bands, and shows exclusive performances and interviews on their website. This makes them more relevant to their target audience, similar to what Burberry does. They release a seasonal fashion film, which is what a lot of high fashion houses like Saint Laurent and Mulberry do. Celebrities such as Kristen Stewart and Jessica Biel are regularly seen in AllSaints clothing, this helps to raise the profile of the brand, and the products are much more desirable.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/05/15/allsaints-launches-television-company—kings-of-leon-documentary

Kristen Stewart

Kristen Stewart

Jessice Biel

Jessica Biel

Bibliography.

ALL SAINTS (2013) Rattle dress [Online image]. Available from: http://images.allsaints.com/products/600/WD180D/210/WD180D-210-1.jpg [Accessed 06/12/13].

ALL SAINTS (2013) Drina cardigan [Online image]. Available from: http://images.allsaints.com/products/600/WK169D/33/WK169D-33-1.jpg %5BAccessed 06/12/13].

ALL SAINTS (2013) Drina cardigan [Online image]. Available from: http://images.allsaints.com/products/600/WD370C/5/WD370C-5-1.jpg %5BAccessed 06/12/13].

ELLE (2012) Kristen Stewart in All Saints [Online image]. Available from: http://www.elleuk.com/var/elleuk/storage/images/star-style/celebrity-fashion-trends/the-a-list-wear-allsaints/kristen-stewart/14896126-1-eng-GB/kristen-stewart_GA.jpg [Accessed 06/12/13].

ELLE (2012) Kristen Stewart in All Saints [Online image]. Available from: http://www.elleuk.com/var/elleuk/storage/images/star-style/celebrity-fashion-trends/the-a-list-wear-allsaints/jessica-biel/14896119-1-eng-GB/jessica-biel_GA.jpg %5BAccessed 06/12/13].

ALL SAINTS (2013) All Saints film presents Sun City [Online video] Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lWHY6NLrW0 [Accessed 06/12/13].

ALL SAINTS (2013) New music cities | New York [Online video] Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOp30mjeyrU [Accessed 06/12/13].

RAPPAPORT, E. (2000) Shopping for Pleasure: women in the making of London’s west end. Princeton NJ, Princeton University Press.

MCROBBIE, A. (1999) British Fashion Design: rag trade or image industry. London, Routledge.

N.A (2013) All Saints [Online] All Saints. Available from: http://www.allsaints.com/ [Accessed 06/12/13].

MAKAN, S. (2012) The A-list wear All Saints [Online] Elle. Available from:http://www.elleuk.com/star-style/celebrity-fashion-trends/the-a-list-wear-allsaints#image=8 [Accessed 06/12/13].

Semiotics.

Mulberry A/W13

Mulberry A/W13

Mulberry is a British brand internationally renowned for it’s expert craftsmanship, particularly in leather goods, and excellent quality. The brand is best known for its leather bags, which the company website states is “the brand’s backbone”. However, they also produce footwear, accessories and womenswear.  Mulberry wants to become better known for their non leather wear lines, and that is projected in the above advert. Mulberry design fashion items for “stylish” and “stand-out” people, and make sure that they are always illustrating their classic British image. The brand is seen as luxury, with a woman’s bag costing up to £5000, and a dress costing up to £3,500. High profile celebrities such as Kate Middleton, Blake Lively and Leighton Meester are often seen wearing Mulberry, and some such as Alexa Chung and Lana Del Ray even have bags named after them.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/1000-companies-inspire-britain/10485864/Mulberry-handbags-and-glad-rags-to-riches.html

The advert appears to be set in a deserted mansion, which could be somewhere in the country, such as Somerset where Mulberry is famously based. While the setting is derelict, it is clear that the house was once luxury, this is shown by the size of the room, the small parts of the fittings you can see and the velvet chairs. The strange addition of a tree and leaves inside projects the ‘outdoorsy’ image that the brand likes to portray, aided by the use of animals that is often featured in Mulberry’s advertising campaigns  in the past they have used foxes and sparrows, while in this case they are using taxidermy owls. Another addition to the ‘outdoorsy’ feel is the model wearing a thick bouclé coat, which looks out of place inside a house, but not when seen with the tree. Also, using model Cara Delevingne projects the luxury British image even more, as she is well known for being the daughter of very wealthy parents, being privately educated and living in a house in Belgravia, London.

http://www.supermodels.nl/caradelevingne/about

The model is holding a large leather Mulberry bag in front of her, the bag is black, which mixes in with the background, but is contrasted by the trademark gold clasp on the front of it, which is instantly related to the Mulberry brand. However, what really stands out in this advert is the Mulberry logo and brand name at the side of the page. The words and logo being in white contrasts with the rest of the image, which is mostly dark, but does have matching white accents, e.g. on the coat and owls.

The brand message is projected well in this advert. It is instantly clear that this is a British brand, and that they sell clothes, bags and shoes. The luxury yet derelict feel of this advert is strongly associated with Mulberry, and also manages to look undoubtedly British. The reasons for this real British feel could also be connected to popular television shows such as Downton Abbey, which have made traditional Britishness fashionable again.

Bibliography.

MULBERRY (2013) AW/13 campaign image [Online Image]. Available from: http://www.mulberry.com/mulberrymedia/renderer/images/8801201455134/COLLECTIONS_IMAGE_CAROUSEL/MEDIUM//SUFFOLK_R.jpg [Accessed 02/11/13].

N.A (n.d) Mulberry company information [Online] Mulberry. Available from: http://www.mulberry.com/investor-relations/profile/ [Accessed 02/11/13].

N.A (n.d) Mulberry ‘About us’ information [Online] Mulberry. Available from: http://www.mulberry.com/explore/about-us [Accessed 02/11/13].

N.A (2010) The celebrities who love Mulberry. Weblog [Online] 09 December. Available from: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/galleries/TMG8191280/The-celebrities-who-love-Mulberry.html [Accessed 02/11/13].

BARNARD, M. (2002). Fashion as communication. London, Routledge.

COOK, G. (1992). The discourse of advertising. London, Routledge.

RHODES, A and ZULOAGO, R. (2003). A semiotic analysis of high fashion advertising. [Online]. Available from: http://www.garhodes.com/Semiotics_of_Fashion.pdf. [Accessed 02/11/13].

MULBERRY. (2013). Mulberry Autumn Winter 2013 campaign. [Online video]. Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ztY4PULTYE [Accessed 02/11/13].

Subculture street style – The Sloane Ranger.

Princess Diana was the face of the Sloane Rangers in the 1980’s. A Sloane Ranger refers to  a stereotype in England of young, upper or upper-middle-class women, or men, who generally grew up in privileged areas of the country, and then moved to London in the areas of Knightsbridge, South Kensington and Chelsea. They were the epitome of rich young things of England in the 80’s, and they were who many young girls and boys aspired to be. So it is fitting that Diana, an aristocrat from the Spencer family, would be seen as the exemplar ‘Sloanie’. She lived every little girls dream, by marrying a member of the royal family, Prince Charles, and becoming a princess.

 During the 1980’s, the idea of being seen as wealthy was extremely important for a lot of people. People were starting to earn more money, and due to the rise of prosperity the upper classes felt the need to assert their position in society as well as their class status. As a result of this, the Sloane Ranger was born, and the signature style for the young upper classes became well known.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/tvandradio/8500469/Whatever-happened-to-the-real-Sloane-Rangers.html

In this image, Princess Diana is wearing a classic Sloane Ranger outfit. To this day, a white shirt with a jumper around the shoulders oozes class, and is worn a lot by upper class men and women alike. The knee length pencil skirt and modest heels project a very smart and elegant look, which is what was expected of upper class ladies, as they were seen to be the creme dela creme of society, and had to keep up that image. The sunglasses Diana is wearing make her appear to have an air of exclusivity about her, and also makes her seem slightly unattainable. Diana’s perfectly quaffed hair was copied by thousands around the world, and never had a hair out of place, this just added to the tasteful and refined yet stylish look.

http://www.stylist.co.uk/home/princess-diana-voted-most-iconic-hairstyle-of-the-last-50-years

Due to there being more money around than ever, younger people managed to become wealthier earlier, which was propelled by Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher’s advice to buy houses and spend money. Also, the recession and extreme money loss that poorer parts of the country suffered from just set a wider gap between classes, so the Sloane Rangers became more unattainable and desirable.

Bibliography.

N.A (n.d) Princess Diana, Sloane Ranger [Online Image]. Available from: http://summersinhavaianas.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/6a2ae184950d3447df9633cc0ea3f663.jpg?w=640 [Accessed on 25/10/13].

SELDON, A and COLLINGS, D. (2000) Britain under Thatcher. Harlow: Longman.

HOWELL, G. (1998) Diana: Her life in fashion. London: Pavillion.

OWEN, J and SMART, T. (1983) Diana Princess of Wales: the book of fashion. Guildford: Colour Library Books.

In an email on 31st October 2013 L. Pollitt stated that Mrs Thatcher highly influenced the spending of the upper classes.

YORK, P. (2011). Whatever happened to the real Sloane Rangers[Online]. The Telegraph. Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/tvandradio/8500469/Whatever-happened-to-the-real-Sloane-Rangers.html. [Accessed: 01/11/13].

N.A. (n.d). Princess Diana voted most iconic hairstyle of the last 50 years. [Online]. Stylist.co.uk. Available from: http://www.stylist.co.uk/home/princess-diana-voted-most-iconic-hairstyle-of-the-last-50-years. [Accessed: 01/11/13].